Just wanted to get some input on this dumb little cabinet in today's Mere Minutes. Well, that and there's some stuff at the end that is mainly for family and friends. Feel free to end the video at about the 5 minute mark.
Welcome to Woodworking for Mere Mortals.
Hello Steve,
ReplyDeleteHere's my suggestions for you:
Maybe put a door on the cab with a piano hinge. Magnetic catch: (rare earth mag in cab and screw in door)
Perhaps if you have an old Polyethylene Plastic cutting board you can use that for slides. Otherwise I'd opt for metal epoxy slides from HD. They will allow the draw to stop that your idea may not. (You don't want to pickup the drawer's contents all the time.)
I'd also use adjustable feet under the box. Use 4 t-nuts and adjustable feet.
Scoop the front side of your drawer face so you don't have to make them smaller to allow for hardware.
Just a few ideas.
Karl
Hey Steve,
ReplyDeleteI'd slap a faceframe on the front to assist with strength and racking. Then make your drawer overlay drawers.
I made a simple painted dresser for my son. I made plywood drawers lined with hardboard on the inside to be smooth to the touch. They have MDF runners that I waxed to make slick. The drawers are still in action. Its not glamorous, but it s functional.
Hey Steve.
ReplyDelete3/4" plywood is the way to go, with a 1-1/2" face frame; flush your face frame to the outside of the box and add 3/4" x 1-1/2" spacers to the inside and mount your glides to that. Get out your Craig Jig and make 2ea 1-1/2"x? extensions to handle the larger panels of your cabinet and then Craig Jig the box together; after dato-ing a 1/4" inch slot to receive the rear panel. 2- 3 inch strips at the top of the box will give you something to screw the top to, once again the Craig Jig works great! Casters are the way to go as when the rain comes it may be nice to move the cabinet before the mopping/cleanup begins.
As for the drawers, when I build a cabinet for the shop I have found 1 sheet of 4'x 8' plywood leaves enough scrap for drawer sides but they are normally built with 1/2". Once again the Craig Jig works wonderfully. I hope this was helpful.
Love your videos, most entertaining!
Steve,
ReplyDeleteFor simplicity's sake I would put a flat panel on the back to give it rigidity and leave it at that.
And definitely use the Kreg jig to make the stand. I built a plywood cabinet for my garage using the Kreg and it turned out very solid.
For the back panel I found that instead of trying to exactly match the dimensions of the case, I left an eighth or so overhand and used my router and flush trim bit to clean it up.
Good luck.
RC
Also, if you are making it from 3/4" plywood, I doubt you will need to double up the top. MDF for the back will be sufficient to give it rigidity.
DeleteAnd for getting it off the floor, why not stick a small brick under each corner? It's cheap and efficient while not wicking water or rusting.
If you are going 3/4 for the sides and at least 1/2 for the back sitting in a rabbet you will be just fine. I have not found that adding a faceframe has any strenth benifits but it does make it look nicer. If you are going to add a faceframe that changes the drawers a little as you will then need to shim out the sides for the drawers to ride on. If I were you I would take scrap plywood and and rip it to the size needed to accommodate the the drawers riding on them and make dust frames (basically a non mitered picture frame that allows the drawer to rider on and prevent the one under it from tipping out, assemble the dustframes either with tonge and groove ot cheat and use Kreg) The size will depend on if you have faceframes or not. Add 1/2" on to the dimentions to allow you to rabbet them into the case sides. If you are doing false drawer fronts just build them to size after the drawers are installed. If you are not haveing falsies then plan the drawer fronts to overhang the dust frames. This will give you plenty of strenth with a clean look and practice for future projects. There are other ways of doing it but this is my preferred method.
ReplyDeleteNate
hay Steve they were really great in the play future actors and singers they did a good play. i just got thur building a router table and didnt have r know how to do draw slides but came across a way to do it with some scrape wood and they worked really great Charles Neil's web site had a free video on some wooden draw slides that really work well and were easy to make you may want to check it out. i think it was in his wood working tip section
ReplyDeleteDrawers suggestion:
ReplyDelete1. Have the bottoms go all the way across so as to ride on the runners.
2. Sides & back glued & screwed (or nailed) to bottom.
3. Get a say 1" roll of self-stick UHMW smooth stuff and stick it to the bottom RUNNING edge of the drawers... They will slide SMOOTHLY... and really be slick as you know what!
If you have some left-over, cut (with scissors) a few pieces spaced along the End-Edges of the drawer bottoms so they would slide smooth against the cabinet side (if they rubbed at all).
Should be COOL!
Good luck!
Joe
When you watched the New Yankee Workshop didn't you pay any attention? Norm would build it using carcass construction. Then you can use a lot thinner sheathing. Cabinets usually have a toe kick at the bottom, which is kind of a frame the rest of the cabinet sits on top of. That would give you some height to keep you out of your flood waters when they arise. No one wants to go within a few inches of the floor to get anything anyways.
ReplyDeleteI keep small scraps of wood in empty kitty litter bags. Then if I want a scrap of wood I dump the bag out onto my bench, paw through it, find what I am looking for, or not, then sweep it all back into the bag. Handy if I'm burning a fire too, I can grab a bag and reduce my scraps some.
Steve,
ReplyDeleteI would recommend 3/4" ply. Use 1/2 or 3/4 for the back.
If you look at the drawers in my router table (the one with the dog) you'll notice the shallow drawers which use the base of the drawer in a dado for the slides. The drawers are butt jointed ply held together with pocket hole screws.
Its held up over 6years without issue, just a little wax from time to time.
ALWAYS CHECK THE BARGAIN AREA AT YOUR LUMBER YARDS
ReplyDeleteLOWES LIKE TO SELL DAMAGED SHEET GOODS FOR A DOLLAR SOME TIMES
AND I WOULD USE 1XS FOR DRAWERS IF YOU ARE CUTTING A DATO OUT OF THEM,
PLYWOOD DRAWERS WORK GREAT IF THEY ARE SOLLID AND SUPPORTED WITH GLIDE HARDWARE
THANKS AGAIN AND KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Structurally, I think you could easily support 60# with 1/2" ply sides and back. They're in pure compression and with the "diagonal bracing" the back provides, should be rigid enough for you to stand or sit on!
ReplyDeleteA face frame or just a 1x2" under the open front edge of the top would prevent any sag there, which I think might be the only risk in that design. Doubled 1/2" ply sheets, screwed and glued might not deflect much at all, even by themselves.
A face frame would add complexity but might make the drawers easier to incorporate.
But I thought one of your objectives was "quick and easy." :)
Looking forward to seeing the results...
Instead of feet on the cabinet, since it don't have to be portable, inset the back 3/4" and put a french cleat on the back and on the wall. Mount it high enough on the wall so a broom will fit underneath for clean up and it will give you a toe kick area on three sides. Also this will allow for moving it fairly easy if the need arises. My $.02 worth...
ReplyDeleteI had the same idea as Frank. A french cleat or two - an upper and a lower for stability - would support this very well and like he said it would allow for cleaning underneath and toe-kick. I made a 50 pound headboard and it is fastened with a long french-cleat.
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure how to get a good glue fit if you make the drawers out of plywood. Instead of cutting a dado and one drawer glide you could use an upper and lower guide and slide the drawer in between the two. There is much less measuring involved and once you have the bottom ones set the drawers tell you where to put the next one. After all this is a shop cabinet.
ReplyDeleteYou can also stick some blocks of wood on the bottom and screw in some floor glides (like they have on your frig to level it, but made to glide). I have this on my 300 pound workbench and move it around my small shop with cement floor.
Why do none of these kids have faces?
ReplyDeleteForget commenting on the TV cabinet; you've got enough of that.
ReplyDeleteWyatt !!! A star is born !!!
Good job Budd !
Great cabinet for a shop Steve. I wish You'd give more on the size and width of the cabinet and drawers. Great job anway. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteSteve