Since I seem to be getting backlogged on pictures that need framing, I built a new miter sled this week. It is much easier to make than the old one. And you'll get perfect mitered corners every time!
Plans:
Bonus video!
I experimented with making a plywood picture frame for a print I've been wanting to complement with something unusual. I like the notion of embracing the plywood's edges and featuring them. I also experimented with using kitchen food coloring as a wood dye. Worked out fine!
Two really great projects! Love how the frame came out and the reason for it.
ReplyDeleteI use food coloring all the time to dye my pens on the lathe. I am going to have try a couple of these plywood frames to frame up things very similar for that for the playroom.
CtL
wow the frame itself is a work of art, you should make a frame to put that frame in lol
ReplyDeleteUhhh...
ReplyDeleteIt's kinda late for someone to mention it now... but...
If you were going to make a second miter sled anyway... why not make the second sled for 22.5 deg miters so it would be useful instead of redundant?
Because its new and improved. Its nicer, cleaner and works better. Its like asking why do people still make cars, tv's and computers.
DeleteIt's simply impressive how you can turn a wood working video into a story! You've made some great videos, but this one was really impressive!! It shows much more of your talent that isn't wood working related. Great Video, Great Music, Great Story!...and a Great Frame.
ReplyDeleteBob aka TripleB
www.scroll-saw-forum.com
Alright Steve, I know how long it takes to make a "normal" video. A pictures frame would probably take about maybe 30-60 minutes to make. How long did it take you to shoot/build the frame? It looks awesome by the way and goes great with picture.
ReplyDeleteAre you sure it doesn't matter if the fences aren't exactly 45 degrees to the blade? I realize that as long as you use a good framing square, the two pieces will total to 90 degrees, but couldn't they also be like 43 and 47 or 44 and 46 if the fence isn't exactly 45 to the blade? If so, then wouldn't you see the difference in the mitered joint? Seems like the cut sides would be different lengths. Then again, it's been a long time since I took geometry, so I may well be wrong.
ReplyDeleteI too am interested in the answer to this one. Maybe Mr. Ramsey meant it wasn't necessary for an "exact" 45 to the blade and such a small difference wouldn't show up in the corners as much, but still ...
DeleteYou are correct... in precise theoretical terms.
DeleteAssuming you make a frame out of pieces of equal width on the top and the side to be joined at the miter, then a miter joint that totals to 90 deg but is not made of two 45 deg cuts MIGHT possibly show an imperfection. Assuming the woodworker measures the inside lengths when cutting each piece to length, then the outside corner of the miter may not meet exactly at the corner, even though the joint will produce a perfect 90 angle.
In practical terms, Steve is correct, because he did use his triangle to mark off a 45. He mounted that first miter fence pretty close to 45 from the blade. Within a degree or two. As long as the total joint adds to 90, the margin of error that Steve might get by being off a degree or two of that 45 will not be noticable unless the frame is built out of crazy wide stock, like making a frame out of board a foot wide or so. The wider the frame material the more pronounced any errors can become.
For wooodworkers that need more perfect precision or are simply anal retentive:
If someone desires to mount the fences nearly perfectly, the best way would be to use your table saw with its rip fence to cut a 6" (or so) square piece of wood. The exact size isn't important as long as the block of wood is perfectly square and the entire square fits on the sled when placed diagonally on the sled's blade curf cut and does not extend beyond the apex point where the two fences should meet, or beyond the back of the sled curf cut. Obviously the square should be as large as is convenient to make as long as it still fits on the sled as described.
Once you have that perfectly square piece of wood, place it on the sled diagonally. Align it absolutely perfectly such that two opposite corners of the square align exactly on the very edge of the saw curf cut in the sled base. Temporarily screw that square in place on the sled, making certain it stays aligned perfectly. (You could also use hot glue, or double sided tape to temporarily secure the wooden square.) Then attach your miter sled fences abutting them to the edges of the square. After your fences are secure, remove the wood square.
Using this technique you can get a 90 deg joint accurate within a fraction of a degree as well as a 45 deg miter within a fraction of a degree.
I could draw a picture that would describe this technique a lot better than my long winded explanation, but I'm too lazy to post a pic.
My theory with the 45 degree angle is that if it is slightly off (I used a pencil line which had a thickness - a scribed line would be tighter) it isn't enough to be perceptible on a picture frame. But whatever that angle is, it will add up to 90 as long as you use both fences.
ReplyDeleteSo I guess both angles are important, but a dead-on accurate 45 is less important. The woodworking I do doesn't demand critical tolerances.
Clearly we need Matthias Wandel to post a response video showing "a more complicated method" of making a miter sled. Something involving lazer beams built out of wood with plans drawn up in full CAD splendor.
DeleteI bet he has an idea for a miter sled where the fences are built out of hinged parallelograms and adjustable accurate to seconds of a degree.
We should all go post on his videos and call him a Wimp if he doesn't come up with something.
I totally agree, Steve. My woodworkiong is nowhere precise enough for this to be a problem,. My question was more of a theory question than a practical one. Persoally, I am thrilled when I can get things close enough to be able to "sand to fit".
ReplyDeleteNew to woodworking you have Great videos. Even a mere mortal can do this stuff. Great use of the color dye.
ReplyDeleteAwesome! I cant wait to try this, should be a nice easy project. I'm wondering how you'd put a spin on this http://youtu.be/IJjrB4SvMWg
ReplyDeleteVery nice. What video editor do you use? Would you consider posting videos on using your editor and ideas on how to make them interesting like your Alice frame? I found myself watching the scene transitions more that the woodworking because I'm getting more and more interested in video editing.
ReplyDeleteRobert
Excellent video, and an interesting take on using plywood for the frame. Your camera work has gotten fairly sophisticated, I bet you had fun making this one.
ReplyDeleteSteve, Why do you make your runners so shallow? In all your vids when you make a sled, you shim the runners with multiple washers or pennies stacked. I can see shimming with one washer or penny high, to me it allows the runner to touch more of the slot and in turn giving less possibility of slop.
ReplyDeleteThanks
Mike In Tn
Mike, what interests me more is how you guys afford all these pennies. I am from the UK and we need every penny we can get our hands on for BEER. Never any over for woodworking projects I'm afraid.
ReplyDeleteJohn (a confirmed fan)